IDEAS home Printed from https://ideas.repec.org/p/zbw/esrepo/209119.html
   My bibliography  Save this paper

Soziale und ökologische Herausforderungen der globalen Textilwirtschaft: Lösungsbeiträge der deutschen Entwicklungszusammenarbeit

Author

Listed:
  • Stamm, Andreas
  • Altenburg, Tilman
  • Müngersdorff, Maximilian
  • Stoffel, Tim
  • Vrolijk, Kasper

Abstract

Bekleidung für den rasch wachsenden Weltmarkt wird fast ausschließlich in Entwicklungs- und Schwellenländern gefertigt. Die Produktionsbedingungen in diesen Ländern gehen mit erheblichen sozialen und ökologischen Problemen einher. Diese in den Griff zu bekommen, ist eines der wesentlichen Ziele der deutschen Entwicklungszusammenarbeit. Dabei werden Maßnahmen in den Produktionsländern verknüpft mit Anstrengungen, unternehmerische Verantwortung entlang der gesamten Textil-Lieferkette einzufordern und hohe und transparente Standards durch den "Grünen Knopf" zu zertifizieren. Die vorliegende Studie identifiziert die wichtigsten sozialen und ökologischen Herausforderungen in der Textil-Lieferkette. Sie betont drei Hauptproblemfelder: Arbeitsbedingungen in der Konfektion; Umweltprobleme in den vorgeschalteten Nassprozessen; und soziale und ökologischen Probleme in der Baumwollerzeugung. Des Weiteren werden (neue) Handlungsfelder für Deutschlands internationale Zusammenarbeit in vier Bereichen beschrieben: (1) den Konsum nachhaltiger gestalten; (2) unternehmerische Sorgfaltspflicht einfordern; (3) die lokale Wertschöpfung in der Produktion steigern; und (4) Institutionen vor Ort stärken.

Suggested Citation

  • Stamm, Andreas & Altenburg, Tilman & Müngersdorff, Maximilian & Stoffel, Tim & Vrolijk, Kasper, 2019. "Soziale und ökologische Herausforderungen der globalen Textilwirtschaft: Lösungsbeiträge der deutschen Entwicklungszusammenarbeit," EconStor Research Reports 209119, ZBW - Leibniz Information Centre for Economics.
    • Handle: RePEc:zbw:esrepo:209119
    DOI: 10.23661/rep1.2019
    as

    Download full text from publisher

    File URL: https://www.econstor.eu/bitstream/10419/209119/1/Soziale%20und%20%c3%b6kologische%20Herausforderungen%20der%20globalen%20Textilwirtschaft.pdf
    Download Restriction: no
    File URL: https://libkey.io/10.23661/rep1.2019?utm_source=ideas
    LibKey link: if access is restricted and if your library uses this service, LibKey will redirect you to where you can use your library subscription to access this item
    ---><---

    References listed on IDEAS

    as
    1. Naila Kabeer & Simeen Mahmud, 2004. "Globalization, gender and poverty: Bangladeshi women workers in export and local markets," Journal of International Development, John Wiley & Sons, Ltd., vol. 16(1), pages 93-109.
    2. Heath, Rachel & Mushfiq Mobarak, A., 2015. "Manufacturing growth and the lives of Bangladeshi women," Journal of Development Economics, Elsevier, vol. 115(C), pages 1-15.
    3. Chikako Oka, 2016. "Improving Working Conditions in Garment Supply Chains: The Role of Unions in Cambodia," British Journal of Industrial Relations, London School of Economics, vol. 54(3), pages 647-672, September.
    4. Nathan,Dev & Tewari,Meenu & Sarkar,Sandip (ed.), 2016. "Labour in Global Value Chains in Asia," Cambridge Books, Cambridge University Press, number 9781107103740.
    5. Angie Ngoc Tran, 2012. "Vietnamese Textile and Garment Industry in the Global Supply Chain: State Strategies and Workers’ Responses," Institutions and Economies (formerly known as International Journal of Institutions and Economies), Faculty of Economics and Administration, University of Malaya, vol. 4(3), pages 123-150, October.
    6. Lo, Chris K.Y. & Yeung, Andy C.L. & Cheng, T.C.E., 2012. "The impact of environmental management systems on financial performance in fashion and textiles industries," International Journal of Production Economics, Elsevier, vol. 135(2), pages 561-567.
    7. Peltzer, Roger & Röttger, Daniela, 2013. "Cotton sector organisation models and their impact on farmer’s productivity and income," IDOS Discussion Papers 4/2013, German Institute of Development and Sustainability (IDOS).
    8. Ratna Nurhayati & Grantley Taylor & Rusmin Rusmin & Greg Tower & Bikram Chatterjee, 2016. "Factors determining social and environmental reporting by Indian textile and apparel firms: a test of legitimacy theory," Social Responsibility Journal, Emerald Group Publishing Limited, vol. 12(1), pages 167-189, March.
    9. Chikako Oka, 2016. "Improving working conditions in garment supply chains: The role of unions in Cambodia," Post-Print hal-02952169, HAL.
    10. Elke Schuessler & Stephen J. Frenkel & Chris F. Wright, 2019. "Governance of Labor Standards in Australian and German Garment Supply Chains: The Impact of Rana Plaza," ILR Review, Cornell University, ILR School, vol. 72(3), pages 552-579, May.
    11. Pamela S. Norum, 2017. "Towards Sustainable Clothing Disposition: Exploring the Consumer Choice to Use Trash as a Disposal Option," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 9(7), pages 1-14, July.
    12. Gereffi, Gary, 1999. "International trade and industrial upgrading in the apparel commodity chain," Journal of International Economics, Elsevier, vol. 48(1), pages 37-70, June.
    Full references (including those not matched with items on IDEAS)

    Most related items

    These are the items that most often cite the same works as this one and are cited by the same works as this one.
    1. Chunyun Li & Sarosh Kuruvilla, 2023. "Corporate codes of conduct and labour turnover in global apparel supply chains," British Journal of Industrial Relations, London School of Economics, vol. 61(3), pages 481-505, September.
    2. Sarosh Kuruvilla & Chunyun Li, 2021. "Freedom of Association and Collective Bargaining in Global Supply Chains: A Research Agenda," Journal of Supply Chain Management, Institute for Supply Management, vol. 57(2), pages 43-57, April.
    3. Rahima Akter & Julian Teicher & Quamrul Alam, 2024. "Gender-Based Violence and Harassment in Bangladesh’s Ready-Made Garments (RMG) Industry: Exploring Workplace Well-Being Issues in Policy and Practice," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 16(5), pages 1-23, March.
    4. Cajal-Grossi, Julia & Macchiavello, Rocco & Noguera, Guillermo, 2019. "International buyers' sourcing and suppliers' markups in Bangladeshi garments," LSE Research Online Documents on Economics 102612, London School of Economics and Political Science, LSE Library.
    5. Lohmeyer, Nora & Schüßler, Elke & Helfen, Markus, 2018. "Can solidarity be organized "from below" in global supply chains? The case of ExChains [Kann Solidarität „von unten“ in globalen Zuliefererketten organisiert werden? Der Fall ExChains]," Industrielle Beziehungen. Zeitschrift für Arbeit, Organisation und Management, Verlag Barbara Budrich, vol. 25(4), pages 400-424.
    6. VAN DEN BROECK, Goedele & MAERTENS, Miet, 2015. "Does Off-farm Employment Make Women in Rural Senegal Happy?," Working Papers 232593, Katholieke Universiteit Leuven, Centre for Agricultural and Food Economics.
    7. Mark ANNER, 2022. "Power relations in global supply chains and the unequal distribution of costs during crises: Abandoning garment suppliers and workers during the COVID‐19 pandemic," International Labour Review, International Labour Organization, vol. 161(1), pages 59-82, March.
    8. Rajneesh Narula, 2019. "Enforcing higher labor standards within developing country value chains: Consequences for MNEs and informal actors in a dual economy," Journal of International Business Studies, Palgrave Macmillan;Academy of International Business, vol. 50(9), pages 1622-1635, December.
    9. Joshi, Deepa & Haque, S. & Nahar, K. & Tania, S. & Singh, J. & Wallace, T., 2022. "Public lives, private water: female ready-made garment factory workers in peri-urban Bangladesh," IWMI Books, Reports H050845, International Water Management Institute.
    10. Oya, Carlos & Schaefer, Florian, 2021. "The politics of labour relations in global production networks: Collective action, industrial parks, and local conflict in the Ethiopian apparel sector," World Development, Elsevier, vol. 146(C).
    11. Jean‐Christophe Graz & Jimena Sobrino Piazza & André Walter, 2022. "Labour Standards in Global Production Networks: Assessing Transnational Private Regulation and Workers’ Capacity to Act," Development and Change, International Institute of Social Studies, vol. 53(4), pages 912-937, July.
    12. Dike, Onyemaechi, 2019. "Informal employment and work health risks: Evidence from Cambodia," MPRA Paper 92943, University Library of Munich, Germany, revised 24 Mar 2019.
    13. Cajal-Grossi, Julia & Del Prete, Davide & Macchiavello, Rocco, 2023. "Supply chain disruptions and sourcing strategies," International Journal of Industrial Organization, Elsevier, vol. 90(C).
    14. Menzel, Andreas & Woodruff, Christopher, 2021. "Gender wage gaps and worker mobility: Evidence from the garment sector in Bangladesh," Labour Economics, Elsevier, vol. 71(C).
    15. Mahmud Minhaj & Otsuka Keijiro & Sawada Yasuyuki & Tanaka Mari & Tanaka Tomomi, 2017. "Women Empowerment in Bangladesh: Household Decisions under Development of Non-Farm Sectors and Microfinance Institutions," Working Papers 154, JICA Research Institute.
    16. Dionne Pohler & Chris Riddell, 2019. "Multinationals’ Compliance with Employment Law: An Empirical Assessment Using Administrative Data from Ontario, 2004 to 2015," ILR Review, Cornell University, ILR School, vol. 72(3), pages 606-635, May.
    17. Rocco Macchiavello & Andreas Menzel & Atonu Rabbani & Christopher Woodruff, 2020. "Challenges of Change: An Experiment Promoting Women to Managerial Roles in the Bangladeshi Garment Sector," NBER Working Papers 27606, National Bureau of Economic Research, Inc.
    18. Jean-Christophe Graz & Nicole Helmerich & Cécile Prébandier, 2020. "Hybrid Production Regimes and Labor Agency in Transnational Private Governance," Journal of Business Ethics, Springer, vol. 162(2), pages 307-321, March.
    19. Fabiola MIERES & Siobhán MCGRATH, 2021. "Ripe to be heard: Worker voice in the Fair Food Program," International Labour Review, International Labour Organization, vol. 160(4), pages 631-647, December.
    20. Gary Gereffi, 2019. "Global value chains and international development policy: Bringing firms, networks and policy-engaged scholarship back in," Journal of International Business Policy, Palgrave Macmillan, vol. 2(3), pages 195-210, September.

    More about this item

    Keywords

    Entwicklungszusammenarbeit; Textilwirtschaft; Soziale Probleme; Umweltschutz; Arbeitsbedingungen; Produktionsbedingungen;
    All these keywords.

    JEL classification:

    • O29 - Economic Development, Innovation, Technological Change, and Growth - - Development Planning and Policy - - - Other
    • O19 - Economic Development, Innovation, Technological Change, and Growth - - Economic Development - - - International Linkages to Development; Role of International Organizations
    • O44 - Economic Development, Innovation, Technological Change, and Growth - - Economic Growth and Aggregate Productivity - - - Environment and Growth
    • Q56 - Agricultural and Natural Resource Economics; Environmental and Ecological Economics - - Environmental Economics - - - Environment and Development; Environment and Trade; Sustainability; Environmental Accounts and Accounting; Environmental Equity; Population Growth
    • F66 - International Economics - - Economic Impacts of Globalization - - - Labor
    • D63 - Microeconomics - - Welfare Economics - - - Equity, Justice, Inequality, and Other Normative Criteria and Measurement

    NEP fields

    This paper has been announced in the following NEP Reports:

    Statistics

    Access and download statistics

    Corrections

    All material on this site has been provided by the respective publishers and authors. You can help correct errors and omissions. When requesting a correction, please mention this item's handle: RePEc:zbw:esrepo:209119. See general information about how to correct material in RePEc.

    If you have authored this item and are not yet registered with RePEc, we encourage you to do it here. This allows to link your profile to this item. It also allows you to accept potential citations to this item that we are uncertain about.

    If CitEc recognized a bibliographic reference but did not link an item in RePEc to it, you can help with this form .

    If you know of missing items citing this one, you can help us creating those links by adding the relevant references in the same way as above, for each refering item. If you are a registered author of this item, you may also want to check the "citations" tab in your RePEc Author Service profile, as there may be some citations waiting for confirmation.

    For technical questions regarding this item, or to correct its authors, title, abstract, bibliographic or download information, contact: ZBW - Leibniz Information Centre for Economics (email available below). General contact details of provider: https://edirc.repec.org/data/zbwkide.html .

    Please note that corrections may take a couple of weeks to filter through the various RePEc services.

    IDEAS is a RePEc service. RePEc uses bibliographic data supplied by the respective publishers.