Global, regional and domestic apparel value chains in Southern Africa: social upgrading for some and downgrading for others

Growing South–South trade and concern with the social implications of participation in value chains brings into focus the trade-offs involved when production can be relatively easily located in developing countries with lower labour standards and products exported back to developing countries with large domestic markets. The article explores spatial shifts of this kind in the context of the South African and Lesotho apparel sectors using value chain analysis and drawing on world systems theory. It concludes that the emergence of a web of value chains coordinated by South African retailers has led to social downgrading in the South African apparel sector and social upgrading in Lesotho, creating a decent work dilemma.