IDEAS home Printed from https://ideas.repec.org/a/eee/jbrese/v105y2019icp434-442.html
   My bibliography  Save this article

The role of mundane and subtle institutional work in market dynamics: A case of fashion clothing market

Author

Listed:
  • Ghaffari, Mahsa
  • Jafari, Aliakbar
  • Sandikci, Ozlem

Abstract

Research on market dynamics shows that markets (trans)form through the institutional work of a wide range of actors. This literature, however, focuses on resourceful and/or powerful actors who can freely and openly shape the market. Via an inductive analysis of the Iranian female fashion clothing market, we examine the institutional work undertaken by actors who have limited resources and are subject to power structures that constrain their institutional work. We find that consumers, designers, retailers, and social activists engage in ambidextrous practices, secure networks, and stealthy defiance to navigate or moderate their institutional restrictions. Such work contributes to the relaxation of some state regulations and the coexistence of parallel taste structures. The study draws attention to mundane, subtle, and less visible and organized institutional work and extends knowledge on marketplace resistance by showing that everyday acts of resistance can function as unintentional institutional work that contributes to market dynamics.

Suggested Citation

  • Ghaffari, Mahsa & Jafari, Aliakbar & Sandikci, Ozlem, 2019. "The role of mundane and subtle institutional work in market dynamics: A case of fashion clothing market," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 105(C), pages 434-442.
    • Handle: RePEc:eee:jbrese:v:105:y:2019:i:c:p:434-442
    DOI: 10.1016/j.jbusres.2019.03.029
    as

    Download full text from publisher

    File URL: http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0148296319302012
    Download Restriction: Full text for ScienceDirect subscribers only
    File URL: https://libkey.io/10.1016/j.jbusres.2019.03.029?utm_source=ideas
    LibKey link: if access is restricted and if your library uses this service, LibKey will redirect you to where you can use your library subscription to access this item
    ---><---

    As the access to this document is restricted, you may want to search for a different version of it.

    References listed on IDEAS

    as
    1. Markus Giesler, 2008. "Conflict and Compromise: Drama in Marketplace Evolution," Journal of Consumer Research, Journal of Consumer Research Inc., vol. 34(6), pages 739-753, August.
    2. Spiggle, Susan, 1994. "Analysis and Interpretation of Qualitative Data in Consumer Research," Journal of Consumer Research, Journal of Consumer Research Inc., vol. 21(3), pages 491-503, December.
    3. Katja H Brunk & Markus Giesler & Benjamin J Hartmann & Darren DahlEditor & Craig ThompsonAssociate Editor, 2018. "Creating a Consumable Past: How Memory Making Shapes Marketization," Journal of Consumer Research, Journal of Consumer Research Inc., vol. 44(6), pages 1325-1342.
    4. Kozinets, Robert V, 2002. "Can Consumers Escape the Market? Emancipatory Illuminations from Burning Man," Journal of Consumer Research, Journal of Consumer Research Inc., vol. 29(1), pages 20-38, June.
    5. Markus Giesler & Craig J. Thompson, 2016. "A Tutorial in Consumer Research: Process Theorization in Cultural Consumer Research," Journal of Consumer Research, Journal of Consumer Research Inc., vol. 43(4), pages 497-508.
    6. Daiane Scaraboto & Eileen Fischer, 2013. "Frustrated Fatshionistas: An Institutional Theory Perspective on Consumer Quests for Greater Choice in Mainstream Markets," Journal of Consumer Research, Journal of Consumer Research Inc., vol. 39(6), pages 1234-1257.
    7. Craig J. Thompson & Gokcen Coskuner-Balli, 2007. "Countervailing Market Responses to Corporate Co-optation and the Ideological Recruitment of Consumption Communities," Journal of Consumer Research, Journal of Consumer Research Inc., vol. 34(2), pages 135-152, June.
    8. Ashlee Humphreys, 2010. "Semiotic Structure and the Legitimation of Consumption Practices: The Case of Casino Gambling," Journal of Consumer Research, Journal of Consumer Research Inc., vol. 37(3), pages 490-510, October.
    9. T. Lawrence & R. Suddaby & B. Leca, 2011. "Institutional work - Re-focusing institutional studies of organization," Post-Print hal-00802293, HAL.
    10. Pierre-Yann Dolbec & Eileen Fischer, 2015. "Refashioning a Field? Connected Consumers and Institutional Dynamics in Markets," Journal of Consumer Research, Journal of Consumer Research Inc., vol. 41(6), pages 1447-1468.
    11. Özlem Sandikci & Güliz Ger, 2010. "Veiling in Style: How Does a Stigmatized Practice Become Fashionable?," Journal of Consumer Research, Journal of Consumer Research Inc., vol. 37(1), pages 15-36, June.
    12. Holt, Douglas B, 2002. "Why Do Brands Cause Trouble? A Dialectical Theory of Consumer Culture and Branding," Journal of Consumer Research, Journal of Consumer Research Inc., vol. 29(1), pages 70-90, June.
    13. Markus Giesler & Ela Veresiu, 2014. "Creating the Responsible Consumer: Moralistic Governance Regimes and Consumer Subjectivity," Journal of Consumer Research, Journal of Consumer Research Inc., vol. 41(3), pages 840-857.
    Full references (including those not matched with items on IDEAS)

    Citations

    Citations are extracted by the CitEc Project, subscribe to its RSS feed for this item.
    as


    Cited by:

    1. Geiger, Susi & Kjellberg, Hans, 2021. "Market mash ups: The process of combinatorial market innovation," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 124(C), pages 445-457.
    2. Ben Slimane, Karim & Chaney, Damien & Humphreys, Ashlee & Leca, Bernard, 2019. "Bringing institutional theory to marketing: Taking stock and future research directions," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 105(C), pages 389-394.
    3. Alice Audrezet & Béatrice Parguel, 2023. "Unpacking nontarget majority consumers' responses to modest fashion: How market controversy perpetuates marketplace exclusion," Post-Print lirmm-03912092, HAL.
    4. Benmecheddal, Ahmed & Nguyen, Arthur & Özçaglar-Toulouse, Nil, 2023. "The micro dynamics of participation in collective market work: The case of Community-Supported Agriculture in France," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 157(C).
    5. Regany, Fatima & Benmecheddal, Ahmed & Belkhir, Meriam & Djelassi, Souad, 2021. "Conflicting coexistence of legitimation and delegitimation logics in a revived market: The case of a traditional clothing market," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 123(C), pages 438-449.

    Most related items

    These are the items that most often cite the same works as this one and are cited by the same works as this one.
    1. Biraghi, Silvia & Gambetti, Rossella & Pace, Stefano, 2018. "Between tribes and markets: The emergence of a liquid consumer-entrepreneurship," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 92(C), pages 392-402.
    2. Bernd Schmitt & J Joško Brakus & Alessandro Biraglia, 2022. "Consumption Ideology [Ideology and Terror: A Novel Form of Government]," Journal of Consumer Research, Journal of Consumer Research Inc., vol. 49(1), pages 74-95.
    3. Benmecheddal, Ahmed & Nguyen, Arthur & Özçaglar-Toulouse, Nil, 2023. "The micro dynamics of participation in collective market work: The case of Community-Supported Agriculture in France," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 157(C).
    4. Wiart, Lucie & Özçağlar-Toulouse, Nil & Shaw, Deirdre, 2022. "Maintaining market legitimacy: A discursive-hegemonic perspective on meat," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 144(C), pages 391-402.
    5. Pedeliento, Giuseppe & Bettinelli, Cristina & Andreini, Daniela & Bergamaschi, Mara, 2018. "Consumer entrepreneurship and cultural innovation: The case of GinO12," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 92(C), pages 431-442.
    6. Regany, Fatima & Benmecheddal, Ahmed & Belkhir, Meriam & Djelassi, Souad, 2021. "Conflicting coexistence of legitimation and delegitimation logics in a revived market: The case of a traditional clothing market," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 123(C), pages 438-449.
    7. Laetitia Mimoun & Lez Trujillo-Torres & Francesca Sobande, 2022. "Social Emotions and the Legitimation of the Fertility Technology Market [The Role of Emotions in Marketing]," Journal of Consumer Research, Journal of Consumer Research Inc., vol. 48(6), pages 1073-1095.
    8. Nicoletta Buratti & Francesco Derchi & Giorgia Profumo, 2015. "The blurred boundary between empowered and working consumers: insights from the winner taco case," MERCATI & COMPETITIVIT?, FrancoAngeli Editore, vol. 2015(4), pages 133-156.
    9. Lee, Chu-Heng & Hsieh, Ming-Huei, 2023. "Market innovation as an institutional reconciliation process: Two individual-level case studies," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 169(C).
    10. Zanette, Maria Carolina & Brito, Eliane Pereira Zamith & Fontenelle, Isleide Arruda & de Camargo Heck, Marina, 2021. "Eating one’s own otherness: When producers commercialize their ethnicities," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 129(C), pages 134-144.
    11. Melea Press, 2021. "Developing a strong sustainability research program in marketing," AMS Review, Springer;Academy of Marketing Science, vol. 11(1), pages 96-114, June.
    12. Busca, Laurent & Bertrandias, Laurent, 2020. "A Framework for Digital Marketing Research: Investigating the Four Cultural Eras of Digital Marketing," Journal of Interactive Marketing, Elsevier, vol. 49(C), pages 1-19.
    13. Bernard Cova & Gerald Gaglio & Juliette Weber & Philippe Chanial, 2018. "Organizational Sensemaking of Non-ethical Consumer Behavior: Case Study of a French Mutual Insurance Company," Journal of Business Ethics, Springer, vol. 148(4), pages 783-799, April.
    14. Nguyen, Hieu P. & Chen, Steven & Mukherjee, Sayantani, 2014. "Reverse stigma in the Freegan community," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 67(9), pages 1877-1884.
    15. Go Jefferies, Josephine & Bishop, Simon & Hibbert, Sally, 2019. "Customer boundary work to navigate institutional arrangements around service interactions: Exploring the case of telehealth," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 105(C), pages 420-433.
    16. Slater, Stephanie & Demangeot, Catherine, 2021. "Marketer acculturation to diversity needs: The case of modest fashion across two multicultural contexts," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 134(C), pages 702-715.
    17. Ndichu, Edna G. & Rittenburg, Terri L., 2021. "Consumers’ navigation of risk perceptions in the adoption of stigmatized products," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 132(C), pages 340-353.
    18. Heiko Wieland & Angeline Nariswari & Melissa Archpru Akaka, 2021. "On managerial relevance: reconciling the academic-practitioner divide through market theorizing," AMS Review, Springer;Academy of Marketing Science, vol. 11(3), pages 252-271, December.
    19. Sophie Michel & Florent Saucede & Catherine Pardo & Hervé Fenneteau, 2019. "Business interaction and institutional work: When intermediaries make efforts to change their position," Post-Print hal-02624331, HAL.
    20. Zanette, Maria Carolina & Scaraboto, Daiane, 2019. "“To Spanx or not to Spanx”: How objects that carry contradictory institutional logics trigger identity conflict for consumers," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 105(C), pages 443-453.

    Corrections

    All material on this site has been provided by the respective publishers and authors. You can help correct errors and omissions. When requesting a correction, please mention this item's handle: RePEc:eee:jbrese:v:105:y:2019:i:c:p:434-442. See general information about how to correct material in RePEc.

    If you have authored this item and are not yet registered with RePEc, we encourage you to do it here. This allows to link your profile to this item. It also allows you to accept potential citations to this item that we are uncertain about.

    If CitEc recognized a bibliographic reference but did not link an item in RePEc to it, you can help with this form .

    If you know of missing items citing this one, you can help us creating those links by adding the relevant references in the same way as above, for each refering item. If you are a registered author of this item, you may also want to check the "citations" tab in your RePEc Author Service profile, as there may be some citations waiting for confirmation.

    For technical questions regarding this item, or to correct its authors, title, abstract, bibliographic or download information, contact: Catherine Liu (email available below). General contact details of provider: http://www.elsevier.com/locate/jbusres .

    Please note that corrections may take a couple of weeks to filter through the various RePEc services.

    IDEAS is a RePEc service. RePEc uses bibliographic data supplied by the respective publishers.