IDEAS home Printed from https://ideas.repec.org/a/zbw/espost/248390.html
   My bibliography  Save this article

Digital value chain restructuring and labour process transformations in the fast-fashion sector: Evidence from the value chains of Zara & H&M

Author

Listed:
  • López, Tatiana
  • Riedler, Tim
  • Köhnen, Heiner
  • Fütterer, Michael

Abstract

In this article, we combine a workplace-centred Labour Process Theory approach with a multi-level Global Value Chain perspective to link digital labour process transformations in the fast-fashion value chain to broader dynamics of digital value chain restructuring. Drawing on a case study of H&M and Zara, we show how these retailers’ digital supply chain management strategies are linked to the de-skilling, standardization and rationalization of tasks and to the emergence of new digital forms of labour control in production, logistics and retail. At the same time, we find that the effects of these transformations on working conditions are mediated by workers’ position in the value chain as well as by gender and capital-labour power relations. The article contributes to debates on value chains and digitalization by revealing how, under digital capitalism, the ability to control and digitally integrate labour processes in complex store, logistics and manufacturing networks represents a key source of power in buyer-driven value chains.

Suggested Citation

  • López, Tatiana & Riedler, Tim & Köhnen, Heiner & Fütterer, Michael, 2022. "Digital value chain restructuring and labour process transformations in the fast-fashion sector: Evidence from the value chains of Zara & H&M," EconStor Open Access Articles and Book Chapters, ZBW - Leibniz Information Centre for Economics, vol. 22(4), pages 684-700.
    • Handle: RePEc:zbw:espost:248390
    DOI: 10.1111/glob.12353
    as

    Download full text from publisher

    File URL: https://www.econstor.eu/bitstream/10419/248390/1/Full-text-article-Lopez-et-al-Digital-value-chain.pdf
    Download Restriction: no
    File URL: https://libkey.io/10.1111/glob.12353?utm_source=ideas
    LibKey link: if access is restricted and if your library uses this service, LibKey will redirect you to where you can use your library subscription to access this item
    ---><---

    References listed on IDEAS

    as
    1. Gereffi,Gary, 2019. "Global Value Chains and Development," Cambridge Books, Cambridge University Press, number 9781108458863, October.
    2. Gereffi,Gary, 2019. "Global Value Chains and Development," Cambridge Books, Cambridge University Press, number 9781108471947, October.
    3. Frederick H Abernathy & Anthony Volpe & David Weil, 2006. "The Future of the Apparel and Textile Industries: Prospects and Choices for Public and Private Actors," Environment and Planning A, , vol. 38(12), pages 2207-2232, December.
    4. Navodya Denuwara & Juha Maijala & Marko Hakovirta, 2019. "Sustainability Benefits of RFID Technology in the Apparel Industry," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 11(22), pages 1-14, November.
    5. Md Aftab & Qin Yuanjian & Nadia Kabir & Zapan Barua, 2018. "Super Responsive Supply Chain: The Case of Spanish Fast Fashion Retailer Inditex-Zara," International Journal of Business and Management, Canadian Center of Science and Education, vol. 13(5), pages 212-212, March.
    6. Pardi, Tommaso. & Krzywdzinski, Martin. & Luethje, Boy., 2020. "Digital manufacturing revolutions as political projects and hypes evidences from the auto sector," ILO Working Papers 995073193302676, International Labour Organization.
    7. Blandine Ageron & Omar Bentahar & Angappa Gunasekaran, 2020. "Digital Supply chain: challenges and future directions," Post-Print hal-03021364, HAL.
    8. Andrea Szalavetz, 2019. "Digitalisation, automation and upgrading in global value chains - factory economy actors versus lead companies," Post-Communist Economies, Taylor & Francis Journals, vol. 31(5), pages 646-670, September.
    9. Azmeh, Shamel & Nadvi, Khalid, 2014. "Asian firms and the restructuring of global value chains," LSE Research Online Documents on Economics 56666, London School of Economics and Political Science, LSE Library.
    10. Nebahat Tokatli, 2008. "Global sourcing: insights from the global clothing industry—the case of Zara, a fast fashion retailer," Journal of Economic Geography, Oxford University Press, vol. 8(1), pages 21-38, January.
    11. Azmeh, Shamel & Nadvi, Khalid, 2014. "Asian firms and the restructuring of global value chains," International Business Review, Elsevier, vol. 23(4), pages 708-717.
    12. Butollo, Florian, 2021. "Digitalization and the geographies of production: Towards reshoring or global fragmentation?," EconStor Open Access Articles and Book Chapters, ZBW - Leibniz Information Centre for Economics, vol. 25(2), pages 259-278.
    13. Neil M. Coe, 2014. "Missing links: Logistics, governance and upgrading in a shifting global economy," Review of International Political Economy, Taylor & Francis Journals, vol. 21(1), pages 224-256, February.
    Full references (including those not matched with items on IDEAS)

    Citations

    Citations are extracted by the CitEc Project, subscribe to its RSS feed for this item.
    as


    Cited by:

    1. Leah Marsh & Sheng Lu, 2024. "Importing Clothing Made from Recycled Textile Materials? A Study of Retailers’ Sourcing Strategies in Five European Countries," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 16(2), pages 1-15, January.
    2. Fuchs Martina & Cumbers Andrew, 2023. "Digitalization and Labor Restructuring," ZFW – Advances in Economic Geography, De Gruyter, vol. 67(4), pages 173-176, December.

    Most related items

    These are the items that most often cite the same works as this one and are cited by the same works as this one.
    1. Liena Kano & Eric W. K. Tsang & Henry Wai-chung Yeung, 2020. "Global value chains: A review of the multi-disciplinary literature," Journal of International Business Studies, Palgrave Macmillan;Academy of International Business, vol. 51(4), pages 577-622, June.
    2. McWilliam, Sarah E. & Kim, Jung Kwan & Mudambi, Ram & Nielsen, Bo Bernhard, 2020. "Global value chain governance: Intersections with international business," Journal of World Business, Elsevier, vol. 55(4).
    3. Lindsay Whitfield & Cornelia Staritz, 2021. "Local supplier firms in Madagascar’s apparel export industry: Upgrading paths, transnational social relations and regional production networks," Environment and Planning A, , vol. 53(4), pages 763-784, June.
    4. Christopher Findlay & Bernard Hoekman, 2021. "Value chain approaches to reducing policy spillovers on international business," Journal of International Business Policy, Palgrave Macmillan, vol. 4(3), pages 390-409, September.
    5. Hyunji KWON & Sun Wook CHUNG & Joonkoo LEE, 2021. "South Korean first‐tier suppliers in apparel global value chains: Upgrading and labour implications in the Asian context," International Labour Review, International Labour Organization, vol. 160(4), pages 553-569, December.
    6. Mostafiz, Md Imtiaz & Musteen, Martina & Saiyed, Abrarali & Ahsan, Mujtaba, 2022. "COVID-19 and the global value chain: Immediate dynamics and long-term restructuring in the garment industry," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 139(C), pages 1588-1603.
    7. Butollo, Florian, 2021. "Digitalization and the geographies of production: Towards reshoring or global fragmentation?," EconStor Open Access Articles and Book Chapters, ZBW - Leibniz Information Centre for Economics, vol. 25(2), pages 259-278.
    8. Elena Poliakova & Liesl Riddle & Michael E. Cummings, 2020. "Diaspora investment promotion via public–private partnerships: Case-study insights and IB research implications from the Succeed in Ireland initiative," Journal of International Business Policy, Palgrave Macmillan, vol. 3(1), pages 23-37, March.
    9. Sarianna Lundan & Gunnar Leymann, . "Investing in sustainable infrastructure: new directions for international business research," UNCTAD Transnational Corporations Journal, United Nations Conference on Trade and Development.
    10. Reis, Germano Glufke & Villar, Eduardo Guedes & Prado Gimenez, Fernando Antonio & Maiolino Molento, Carla Forte & Ferri, Priscila, 2022. "The interplay of entrepreneurial ecosystems and global value chains: Insights from the cultivated meat entrepreneurial ecosystem of Singapore," Technology in Society, Elsevier, vol. 71(C).
    11. Gary Gereffi, 2020. "What does the COVID-19 pandemic teach us about global value chains? The case of medical supplies," Journal of International Business Policy, Palgrave Macmillan, vol. 3(3), pages 287-301, September.
    12. Saon Ray & Smita Miglani, 2020. "India's GVC integration: An analysis of upgrading efforts and facilitation of lead firms," Indian Council for Research on International Economic Relations (ICRIER) Working Paper 386, Indian Council for Research on International Economic Relations (ICRIER), New Delhi, India.
    13. Mike W. Peng & Nishant Kathuria, 2021. "COVID‐19 and the Scope of the Firm," Journal of Management Studies, Wiley Blackwell, vol. 58(5), pages 1431-1435, July.
    14. Pushp, Pushkar & Ahmed, Faisal, 2023. "The global value chain: Challenges faced by ASEAN least developed countries," Journal of Policy Modeling, Elsevier, vol. 45(6), pages 1223-1245.
    15. Peter J. Buckley & Nigel Driffield & Jae-Yeon Kim, 2022. "The Role of Outward FDI in Creating Korean Global Factories," Management International Review, Springer, vol. 62(1), pages 27-52, February.
    16. Patrizia Casadei & Simona Iammarino, 2021. "Trade policy shocks in the UK textile and apparel value chain: Firm perceptions of Brexit uncertainty," Journal of International Business Policy, Palgrave Macmillan, vol. 4(2), pages 262-285, June.
    17. González-Ramírez, María Guadalupe & Santoyo-Cortés, Vinicio Horacio & Arana-Coronado, José Jaime & Muñoz-Rodríguez, Manrrubio & Albis-Salas, Nadia, 2023. "Global traders and the integration of Chile and Mexico into the configuration of the global value chain of berries," International Food and Agribusiness Management Review, International Food and Agribusiness Management Association, vol. 26(2), February.
    18. Cuervo-Cazurra, Alvaro & Pananond, Pavida, 2023. "The rise of emerging market lead firms in global value chains," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 154(C).
    19. Azmeh, Shamel, 2015. "Transient global value chains and preferential trade agreements: rules of origin in US trade agreements with Jordan and Egypt," LSE Research Online Documents on Economics 64601, London School of Economics and Political Science, LSE Library.
    20. Xiangming Chen, . "Change and continuity in special economic zones: a reassessment and lessons from China," UNCTAD Transnational Corporations Journal, United Nations Conference on Trade and Development.

    Corrections

    All material on this site has been provided by the respective publishers and authors. You can help correct errors and omissions. When requesting a correction, please mention this item's handle: RePEc:zbw:espost:248390. See general information about how to correct material in RePEc.

    If you have authored this item and are not yet registered with RePEc, we encourage you to do it here. This allows to link your profile to this item. It also allows you to accept potential citations to this item that we are uncertain about.

    If CitEc recognized a bibliographic reference but did not link an item in RePEc to it, you can help with this form .

    If you know of missing items citing this one, you can help us creating those links by adding the relevant references in the same way as above, for each refering item. If you are a registered author of this item, you may also want to check the "citations" tab in your RePEc Author Service profile, as there may be some citations waiting for confirmation.

    For technical questions regarding this item, or to correct its authors, title, abstract, bibliographic or download information, contact: ZBW - Leibniz Information Centre for Economics (email available below). General contact details of provider: https://edirc.repec.org/data/zbwkide.html .

    Please note that corrections may take a couple of weeks to filter through the various RePEc services.

    IDEAS is a RePEc service. RePEc uses bibliographic data supplied by the respective publishers.