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Jumping Scale and Bridging Space in the Era of Corporate Social Responsibility: cross-border labour struggles in the global garment industry

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  • Jeroen Merk

Abstract

Global outsourcing arrangements in the garment industry, and elsewhere, provide one type of company—brands or retailers—with the possibility of distancing themselves from the organisational questions related to (mass) labour processes. By externalising the labour-intensive aspects of production, global sourcing companies no longer have to take responsibility for the majority of workers involved in the process. This has given these companies an opportunity to break out of unionised and established industrial areas with strict institutionalised labour processes, and has undermined traditional strategies that labour has used to protect itself against exploitation, turning the global supply chain into a barrier to organising and collective bargaining. Spatial strategies are by no means exclusive to firms. Workers too can pursue their causes on a broader socio-geographic terrain, a process often referred to as ‘jumping scale’ or ‘bridging space’. Drawing upon concepts derived from social and labour geography, this paper is a critical inquiry into the nature, possibility and limits to cross-border solidarity campaigns in the global garment industry. The paper starts by emphasising that workers remain active participants in a process of contestation that constantly reshapes the dynamics of workplace control and its accompanying power balances and relations. Then we discuss how the increased attention being paid to working conditions by activists, consumers, journalists and branded corporations adds an extra-local dimension to workplace relations, (potentially) restricting management from exercising more despotic forms of labour relations. The final part discusses how the Clean Clothes Campaign's urgent appeal system provides a grassroots-based system to build labour solidarity across space, which may help to regain leverage over capital.

Suggested Citation

  • Jeroen Merk, 2009. "Jumping Scale and Bridging Space in the Era of Corporate Social Responsibility: cross-border labour struggles in the global garment industry," Third World Quarterly, Taylor & Francis Journals, vol. 30(3), pages 599-615.
  • Handle: RePEc:taf:ctwqxx:v:30:y:2009:i:3:p:599-615
    DOI: 10.1080/01436590902742354
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    Cited by:

    1. Herr, Benjamin & Schörpf, Philip & Flecker, Jörg, 2021. "Virtuelle Kommunikationsräume als Ausgangspunkt für Interessenartikulation in der Onlineplattformarbeit [Virtual communication rooms as a launching area for the articulation of interests in remot," Industrielle Beziehungen. Zeitschrift für Arbeit, Organisation und Management, Verlag Barbara Budrich, vol. 28(2), pages 172-193.
    2. Lohmeyer, Nora & Schüßler, Elke & Helfen, Markus, 2018. "Can solidarity be organized "from below" in global supply chains? The case of ExChains [Kann Solidarität „von unten“ in globalen Zuliefererketten organisiert werden? Der Fall ExChains]," Industrielle Beziehungen. Zeitschrift für Arbeit, Organisation und Management, Verlag Barbara Budrich, vol. 25(4), pages 400-424.
    3. Yossi Dahan & Hanna Lerner & Faina Milman-Sivan, 2023. "Shared Responsibility and Labor Rights in Global Supply Chains," Journal of Business Ethics, Springer, vol. 182(4), pages 1025-1040, February.
    4. Loraine Kennedy, 2017. "State restructuring and emerging patterns of subnational policy-making and governance in China and India," Environment and Planning C, , vol. 35(1), pages 6-24, February.
    5. Scherrer, Christoph & Beck, Stefan, 2016. "Trade regulations and global production networks," GLU Working Papers 43, Global Labour University (GLU).
    6. M Vijayabaskar, 2017. "State spatial restructuring, subnational politics and emerging spaces of engagement for collective action: Labour regimes in Tamil Nadu, southern India," Environment and Planning C, , vol. 35(1), pages 42-56, February.
    7. Marslev, Kristoffer & Staritz, Cornelia & Raj‐Reichert, Gale, 2022. "Rethinking Social Upgrading in Global Value Chains: Worker Power, State‒Labour Relations and Intersectionality," EconStor Open Access Articles and Book Chapters, ZBW - Leibniz Information Centre for Economics, vol. 53(4), pages 827-859.
    8. Huw Thomas, 2021. "A ‘Decent Cuppa’: Worker Power and Consumer Power in the Sri Lankan Tea Sector," British Journal of Industrial Relations, London School of Economics, vol. 59(1), pages 114-138, March.
    9. Noronha, Ernesto & D'Cruz, Premilla, 2020. "The Indian IT industry: A global production network perspective," IPE Working Papers 134/2020, Berlin School of Economics and Law, Institute for International Political Economy (IPE).
    10. Hannes Hofmann & Martin C. Schleper & Constantin Blome, 2018. "Conflict Minerals and Supply Chain Due Diligence: An Exploratory Study of Multi-tier Supply Chains," Journal of Business Ethics, Springer, vol. 147(1), pages 115-141, January.
    11. Kristoffer Marslev & Cornelia Staritz & Gale Raj‐Reichert, 2022. "Rethinking Social Upgrading in Global Value Chains: Worker Power, State‒Labour Relations and Intersectionality," Development and Change, International Institute of Social Studies, vol. 53(4), pages 827-859, July.
    12. Deniz Köksal & Jochen Strähle & Martin Müller & Matthias Freise, 2017. "Social Sustainable Supply Chain Management in the Textile and Apparel Industry—A Literature Review," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 9(1), pages 1-32, January.
    13. Ashwin, Sarah & Lohmeyer, Nora & Egels-Zandén, Niklas & Alexander, Rachel, 2024. "Going global: comparing union resourcefulness in securing inclusion in supply chain labor governance initiatives," LSE Research Online Documents on Economics 123894, London School of Economics and Political Science, LSE Library.
    14. Deniz Köksal & Jochen Strähle & Martin Müller, 2018. "Social Sustainability in Apparel Supply Chains—The Role of the Sourcing Intermediary in a Developing Country," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 10(4), pages 1-35, March.
    15. Annelien Gansemans & Marijke D’Haese, 2020. "Staying under the radar: constraints on labour agency of pineapple plantation workers in Costa Rica?," Agriculture and Human Values, Springer;The Agriculture, Food, & Human Values Society (AFHVS), vol. 37(2), pages 397-414, June.

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