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Near†sourcing UK apparel: value chain restructuring, productivity and the informal economy

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  • Nikolaus Hammer
  • Réka Plugor

Abstract

Fast fashion's emphasis on quick response production and supply chain management is at the basis of renewed growth in UK apparel manufacturing. This article shows how increasing pressure from lead firms has resulted in manufacturers maintaining profit levels, mainly, through informal subcontracting and informal employment, as opposed to increasing productivity.

Suggested Citation

  • Nikolaus Hammer & Réka Plugor, 2016. "Near†sourcing UK apparel: value chain restructuring, productivity and the informal economy," Industrial Relations Journal, Wiley Blackwell, vol. 47(5-6), pages 402-416, November.
    • Handle: RePEc:bla:indrel:v:47:y:2016:i:5-6:p:402-416
    DOI: 10.1111/irj.12146
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    References listed on IDEAS

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    1. Doug Miller, 2013. "Towards sustainable labour costing in UK fashion retail," Global Development Institute Working Paper Series ctg-2013-14, GDI, The University of Manchester.
    2. Katy Long, 2010. "Labour productivity measures from the ABI: 1998 to 2007," Economic & Labour Market Review, Palgrave Macmillan;Office for National Statistics, vol. 4(5), pages 30-43, May.
    3. Damian Grimshaw & Jill Rubery, 2005. "Inter-capital relations and the network organisation: redefining the work and employment nexus," Cambridge Journal of Economics, Cambridge Political Economy Society, vol. 29(6), pages 1027-1051, November.
    4. David Bailey & Lisa De Propris, 2014. "Editor's choice Manufacturing reshoring and its limits: the UK automotive case," Cambridge Journal of Regions, Economy and Society, Cambridge Political Economy Society, vol. 7(3), pages 379-395.
    Full references (including those not matched with items on IDEAS)

    Citations

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    Cited by:

    1. Leah Marsh & Sheng Lu, 2024. "Importing Clothing Made from Recycled Textile Materials? A Study of Retailers’ Sourcing Strategies in Five European Countries," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 16(2), pages 1-15, January.
    2. Patrizia Casadei & Simona Iammarino, 2021. "Trade policy shocks in the UK textile and apparel value chain: Firm perceptions of Brexit uncertainty," Journal of International Business Policy, Palgrave Macmillan, vol. 4(2), pages 262-285, June.
    3. Nikolaus Hammer & Réka Plugor, 2019. "Disconnecting Labour? The Labour Process in the UK Fast Fashion Value Chain," Work, Employment & Society, British Sociological Association, vol. 33(6), pages 913-928, December.
    4. Ian Clark & Trevor Colling, 2018. "Work in Britain's Informal Economy: Learning from Road†Side Hand Car Washes," British Journal of Industrial Relations, London School of Economics, vol. 56(2), pages 320-341, June.
    5. Surhan Cam & Serap Palaz, 2023. "Mutual interests management with a purposive approach: Evidence from the Turkish shipyards for an amorphous impact model between (subjective) well‐being and performance," Industrial Relations Journal, Wiley Blackwell, vol. 54(1), pages 40-70, January.
    6. Valeria Pulignano & Glenn Morgan, 2023. "The ‘Grey Zone’ at the Interface of Work and Home: Theorizing Adaptations Required by Precarious Work," Work, Employment & Society, British Sociological Association, vol. 37(1), pages 257-273, February.
    7. Mostafiz, Md Imtiaz & Musteen, Martina & Saiyed, Abrarali & Ahsan, Mujtaba, 2022. "COVID-19 and the global value chain: Immediate dynamics and long-term restructuring in the garment industry," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 139(C), pages 1588-1603.
    8. Martínez Mora, Carmen & Merino De Lucas, Fernando, 2017. "La estrategia de retorno de la industria española: El caso del sector calzado en Alicante, su importancia y determinantes/Reshoring the Spanish Production of Footwear: Its Importance and Determinants," Estudios de Economia Aplicada, Estudios de Economia Aplicada, vol. 35, pages 777-800, Agosto.
    9. Ian Clark & Alan Collins & James Hunter & Richard Pickford & Jack Barratt & Huw Fearnall-Williams, 2023. "Persistently non-compliant employment practice in the informal economy: permissive visibility in a multiple regulator setting," Cambridge Journal of Economics, Cambridge Political Economy Society, vol. 47(3), pages 611-632.

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