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Certifying Forests and Factories: States, Social Movements, and the Rise of Private Regulation in the Apparel and Forest Products Fields

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  • Tim Bartley

Abstract

Systems of private regulation based on certification have recently emerged to address environmental issues in the forest products industry and labor issues in the apparel industry. To explain why the same regulatory form has emerged across these fields, the author uses a historical and comparative case study approach, closely examining early moments and paying attention to “roads not taken.†Two types of factors led to the initial emergence of private certification: (1) social movement campaigns targeting companies and (2) a neo-liberal institutional context. The analysis shows specific ways in which these factors led states, nongovernmental organizations, and companies to build or support certification associations.

Suggested Citation

  • Tim Bartley, 2003. "Certifying Forests and Factories: States, Social Movements, and the Rise of Private Regulation in the Apparel and Forest Products Fields," Politics & Society, , vol. 31(3), pages 433-464, September.
    • Handle: RePEc:sae:polsoc:v:31:y:2003:i:3:p:433-464
    DOI: 10.1177/0032329203254863
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    Cited by:

    1. Anselm Schneider & Christopher Wickert & Emilio Marti, 2017. "Reducing Complexity by Creating Complexity: A Systems Theory Perspective on How Organizations Respond to Their Environments," Journal of Management Studies, Wiley Blackwell, vol. 54(2), pages 182-208, March.
    2. Kyungmin Baek, 2017. "The Diffusion of Voluntary Environmental Programs: The Case of ISO 14001 in Korea, 1996–2011," Journal of Business Ethics, Springer, vol. 145(2), pages 325-336, October.
    3. van der Loos, Hendrik Z. Adriaan & Kalfagianni, Agni & Biermann, Frank, 2018. "Global aspirations, regional variation? Explaining the global uptake and growth of forestry certification," Journal of Forest Economics, Elsevier, vol. 33(C), pages 41-50.
    4. Steve Williams & Brian Abbott & Edmund Heery, 2017. "Civil Governance in Work and Employment Relations: How Civil Society Organizations Contribute to Systems of Labour Governance," Journal of Business Ethics, Springer, vol. 144(1), pages 103-119, August.
    5. Fischer, Carolyn & Sedjo, Roger & Jawahar, Puja & Aguilar , Francisco, 2005. "Forest Certification: Toward Common Standards?," RFF Working Paper Series dp-05-10, Resources for the Future.
    6. Zilberman, David & Kaplan, Scott & Gordon, Ben, 2018. "The political economy of labeling," Food Policy, Elsevier, vol. 78(C), pages 6-13.
    7. Alexander, Rachel, 2020. "Emerging roles of lead buyer governance for sustainability across global production networks," LSE Research Online Documents on Economics 100908, London School of Economics and Political Science, LSE Library.
    8. Desirée F. Pacheco & Jeffrey G. York & Timothy J. Hargrave, 2014. "The Coevolution of Industries, Social Movements, and Institutions: Wind Power in the United States," Organization Science, INFORMS, vol. 25(6), pages 1609-1632, December.
    9. Desiree F. Pacheco & Thomas J. Dean, 2015. "Firm responses to social movement pressures: A competitive dynamics perspective," Strategic Management Journal, Wiley Blackwell, vol. 36(7), pages 1093-1104, July.
    10. Dietz, Thomas & Auffenberg, Jennie & Estrella Chong, Andrea & Grabs, Janina & Kilian, Bernard, 2018. "The Voluntary Coffee Standard Index (VOCSI). Developing a Composite Index to Assess and Compare the Strength of Mainstream Voluntary Sustainability Standards in the Global Coffee Industry," Ecological Economics, Elsevier, vol. 150(C), pages 72-87.
    11. Keshab Das, 2016. "Situating Labour in the Global Production Network Debate: As if the ‘South’ Mattered," The Indian Journal of Labour Economics, Springer;The Indian Society of Labour Economics (ISLE), vol. 59(3), pages 343-362, September.
    12. Rachel Alexander, 2020. "Emerging Roles of Lead Buyer Governance for Sustainability Across Global Production Networks," Journal of Business Ethics, Springer, vol. 162(2), pages 269-290, March.
    13. Matteo Fiorini & Bernard Hoekman & Marion Jansen & Philip Schleifer & Olga Solleder & Regina Taimasova & Joseph Wozniak, 2019. "Institutional design of voluntary sustainability standards systems: Evidence from a new database," Development Policy Review, Overseas Development Institute, vol. 37(S2), pages 193-212, July.
    14. Gallemore, Caleb & Guisinger, Amy & Kruuse, Mikkel & Ruysschaert, Denis & Jespersen, Kristjan, 2018. "Escaping the “Teenage” Years: The Politics of Rigor and the Evolution of Private Environmental Standards," Ecological Economics, Elsevier, vol. 152(C), pages 76-87.
    15. Frances Bowen, 2019. "Marking Their Own Homework: The Pragmatic and Moral Legitimacy of Industry Self-Regulation," Journal of Business Ethics, Springer, vol. 156(1), pages 257-272, April.
    16. repec:bla:glopol:v:8:y:2017:i:s3:p:29-41 is not listed on IDEAS
    17. Henry, Laura A. & Tysiachniouk, Maria, 2018. "The uneven response to global environmental governance: Russia's contentious politics of forest certification," Forest Policy and Economics, Elsevier, vol. 90(C), pages 97-105.
    18. Panico, Teresa & Pagnani, Tiziana & Caracciolo, Francesco, 2018. "Intention to Purchase Sustainable Wood Products: An Empirical Analysis of the Determinants," International Journal on Food System Dynamics, International Center for Management, Communication, and Research, vol. 9(4), August.
    19. Luc Fransen & Brian Burgoon & Jette Steen Knudsen, 2017. "How Do Domestic Regulatory Traditions Shape CSR in Large International US and UK Firms?," Global Policy, London School of Economics and Political Science, vol. 8, pages 29-41, May.
    20. Laura Kurth & Pieter Glasbergen, 2017. "Serving a heterogeneous Muslim identity? Private governance arrangements of halal food in the Netherlands," Agriculture and Human Values, Springer;The Agriculture, Food, & Human Values Society (AFHVS), vol. 34(1), pages 103-118, March.

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