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Upgrading and restructuring in the global apparel value chain: why China and Asia are outperforming Mexico and Central America

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  • Stacey Frederick
  • Gary Gereffi

Abstract

This article uses the global value chain approach to analyse the upgrading trajectories of leading apparel exporters adapting to the end of textile and apparel quotas and the economic recession. These events have been coupled by the consolidation and reconfiguration of global supply chains. China has been the big winner while other Asian suppliers are expanding their roles, largely at the expense of regional suppliers. One key to Asia's competitive success vis-a-vis Mexico and Central America has been end market diversification. Regional trade agreements (NAFTA; DR-CAFTA) have provided the latter with preferential access to the US market and ties to brand manufacturers, but they also created a reliance on US exports and have hindered suppliers from developing regional linkages into textile production, apparel design and branding. Growing apparel demand in emerging Asian economies and a regionally integrated production network has allowed Chinese apparel suppliers to upgrade and expand global market share.

Suggested Citation

  • Stacey Frederick & Gary Gereffi, 2011. "Upgrading and restructuring in the global apparel value chain: why China and Asia are outperforming Mexico and Central America," International Journal of Technological Learning, Innovation and Development, Inderscience Enterprises Ltd, vol. 4(1/2/3), pages 67-95.
    • Handle: RePEc:ids:ijtlid:v:4:y:2011:i:1/2/3:p:67-95
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    Citations

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    Cited by:

    1. Sheng Lu, 2018. "What Will Happen to the US Textile and Apparel Industry if the NAFTA Goes?," Margin: The Journal of Applied Economic Research, National Council of Applied Economic Research, vol. 12(2), pages 113-137, May.
    2. Jennifer Bair & Gary Gereffi, 2013. "Better Work in Central America: assessing the opportunities for upgrading in Nicaragua’s apparel sector," Global Development Institute Working Paper Series ctg-2013-17, GDI, The University of Manchester.
    3. Hyunji KWON & Sun Wook CHUNG & Joonkoo LEE, 2021. "South Korean first‐tier suppliers in apparel global value chains: Upgrading and labour implications in the Asian context," International Labour Review, International Labour Organization, vol. 160(4), pages 553-569, December.
    4. Liu, Yuandan & Tang, Tingfeng & Ah, Ranran & Luo, Limin, 2024. "Has digital technology promoted the restructuring of global value chains? Evidence from China," Economic Analysis and Policy, Elsevier, vol. 81(C), pages 269-280.
    5. Florian BUTOLLO & Lea SCHNEIDEMESSER, 2021. "Beyond “Industry 4.0": B2B factory networks as an alternative path towards the digital transformation of manufacturing and work," International Labour Review, International Labour Organization, vol. 160(4), pages 537-552, December.
    6. Ping Hua, 2021. "How did China rise its manufacturing domestic value added in exports through GVC moving up?," Working Papers hal-03373508, HAL.
    7. Islam, Mohammad Tarikul & Polonsky, Michael Jay, 2020. "Validating scales for economic upgrading in global value chains and assessing the impact of upgrading on supplier firms’ performance," Journal of Business Research, Elsevier, vol. 110(C), pages 144-159.
    8. Gereffi, Gary & Luo, Xubei, 2014. "Risks and opportunities of participation in global value chains," Policy Research Working Paper Series 6847, The World Bank.
    9. John Pickles, 2012. "South African horticulture: opportunities and challenges for economic and social upgrading in value chains," Global Development Institute Working Paper Series ctg-2012-13, GDI, The University of Manchester.
    10. Taguchi, Hiroyuki, 2018. "Domestic value creation in global value chains in Asian economies," MPRA Paper 89741, University Library of Munich, Germany.
    11. Taguchi, Hiroyuki, 2018. "Domestic value creation in the involvement in global value chains: Evidence of China," MPRA Paper 88436, University Library of Munich, Germany.
    12. Macchion, Laura & Moretto, Antonella & Caniato, Federico & Caridi, Maria & Danese, Pamela & Vinelli, Andrea, 2015. "Production and supply network strategies within the fashion industry," International Journal of Production Economics, Elsevier, vol. 163(C), pages 173-188.
    13. Óscar Rodil-Marzábal & Ana Laura Gómez Pérez & Hugo Campos-Romero, 2022. "The Global Textile and Apparel Value Chain: From Mexico–US–China Linkages to a Global Approach," Economies, MDPI, vol. 10(10), pages 1-18, October.
    14. Jorge Gustavo Rodríguez Aboytes & Matthias Barth, 2020. "Learning Processes in the Early Development of Sustainable Niches: The Case of Sustainable Fashion Entrepreneurs in Mexico," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 12(20), pages 1-26, October.
    15. Gary Gereffi & Xubei Luo, 2015. "Risks and Opportunities of Participation in Global Value Chains," Journal of Banking and Financial Economics, University of Warsaw, Faculty of Management, vol. 2(4), pages 51-63, June.
    16. Ronald Kumar, 2014. "Exploring the nexus between capital inflows and growth in Latin America and the Caribbean: a study of clusters led by Brazil and Mexico," Quality & Quantity: International Journal of Methodology, Springer, vol. 48(5), pages 2537-2552, September.
    17. Gary Gereffi & Hyun-Chin Lim & Joonkoo Lee, 2021. "Trade policies, firm strategies, and adaptive reconfigurations of global value chains," Journal of International Business Policy, Palgrave Macmillan, vol. 4(4), pages 506-522, December.
    18. Dallas, Mark P., 2014. "Manufacturing Paradoxes: Foreign Ownership, Governance, and Value Chains in China’s Light Industries," World Development, Elsevier, vol. 57(C), pages 47-62.
    19. Thomas Bernhardt, 2013. "Developing countries in the global apparel value chain: a tale of upgrading and downgrading experiences," Global Development Institute Working Paper Series ctg-2013-22, GDI, The University of Manchester.

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