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Material and symbolic production of fashion in a global creative city. Industry’s perception of the 21st century London

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  • Casadei, Patrizia
  • Gilbert, David

Abstract

In response to globalization of traditional manufacturing and the growing significance of a symbolic economy, fashion cities are now formed by different mixings of material, design/creative and symbolic forms of production. The intersection between these elements is particularly evident in the global fashion cities, which have experienced a profound process of deindustrialization and a shift between manufacturing and symbolic economies. This paper explores London’s relationship with fashion through the perspectives of key industry actors. We draw upon 30 semi-structured in-depth interviews undertaken between 2016 and 2018 to explore the interplay between material, creative and symbolic forms of fashion production in the city. Interview material is supported by the analysis of data collected from the Office for National Statistics and the Higher Education Statistics Agency. London’s fashion ecosystem is seen as having strong focus on creativity, artistic values and forms of symbolism, which are however regarded as in tension with a viable fashion design industry, an effective business culture and manufacturing system. The paper contributes to the literature on the fashion’s positioning in urban economies by shedding light on the interaction between production, creative and symbolic elements in a global creative city.

Suggested Citation

  • Casadei, Patrizia & Gilbert, David, 2024. "Material and symbolic production of fashion in a global creative city. Industry’s perception of the 21st century London," LSE Research Online Documents on Economics 117531, London School of Economics and Political Science, LSE Library.
    • Handle: RePEc:ehl:lserod:117531
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    File URL: http://eprints.lse.ac.uk/117531/
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    References listed on IDEAS

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    1. Allen John Scott, 2014. "Beyond the Creative City: Cognitive--Cultural Capitalism and the New Urbanism," Regional Studies, Taylor & Francis Journals, vol. 48(4), pages 565-578, April.
    2. Allen J. Scott, 2002. "Competitive Dynamics of Southern California's Clothing Industry: The Widening Global Connection and its Local Ramifications," Urban Studies, Urban Studies Journal Limited, vol. 39(8), pages 1287-1306, July.
    3. Norma M. Rantisi, 2004. "The Ascendance of New York Fashion," International Journal of Urban and Regional Research, Wiley Blackwell, vol. 28(1), pages 86-106, March.
    4. Pamela K. Robinson & Linda Hsieh, 2016. "Reshoring: a strategic renewal of luxury clothing supply chains," Operations Management Research, Springer, vol. 9(3), pages 89-101, December.
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    More about this item

    Keywords

    creativity; fashion industry; London; manufacturing; semi-structured interviews; symbolism;
    All these keywords.

    JEL classification:

    • R14 - Urban, Rural, Regional, Real Estate, and Transportation Economics - - General Regional Economics - - - Land Use Patterns
    • J01 - Labor and Demographic Economics - - General - - - Labor Economics: General
    • J50 - Labor and Demographic Economics - - Labor-Management Relations, Trade Unions, and Collective Bargaining - - - General

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