Sustainability Through Local Gastronomy: The Case of Wild Rabbit’s Consumption in Lemnos Island, Greece

For more than two decades in Lemnos island an overpopulation of the European Wild Rabbit (WR) (Oryctolagus cuniculus) is recorded despite its sustainable presence from ancient times. This disruption of ecological balance is causing significant economic loss in farmers and social conflicts among local stakeholders. Various actions to reduce WR population failed, resulting a yearly compensation for farmers’ production loss, a policy that manages the impact but not the problem itself. This study aims to re-evaluate the WR issue in Lemnos by studying the socio-economic and ecological dynamics of re-introducing WR meat as a commodity of the local gastronomy. Data from agricultural and hunting associations and local restaurants were collected and a purposive sample of thirteen stakeholders was chosen for semi-structured interviews. Results showed (a) increasing numbers of WR in the island, (b) declining interest in hunting them by hunters, (c) institutional restrictions on processing and selling their meat, and (d) reluctance to introduce them to restaurant menus by their owners, with only two restaurants offering traditional recipes of WR. In contrast to negative existing situation, most of the stakeholders could understand the potential of utilizing the WR meat in various modern ways, with and beyond its traditional use as rabbit stew (stifado), even though they were reluctant to take action until now. Implementing sustainability is a complex task demanding participatory processes and holistic understanding of the system involved. The WR problem in Lemnos has all the potential to be solved through local gastronomy, but to implement it will take a little bit longer.