Mimeticism and the Basis of Value: Toward a Theory of Fashion Marketing

The objective of this paper is to propose a theory of fashion marketing which directly addresses the social processes that consumers use to associate images and meaning to articles of fashion. By doing so, the theory will address the means by which fashion originates and diffuses through society, an important issue of concern to fashion marketers. The role of taste in fashion involves taste acting as the means of influence between others and one’s fashion understanding and subsequent fashion choices. Taste, therefore, is an evaluation of what is desirable or acceptable as determined by the opinions of others. Taste has broad-reaching effects on the desires and purchases of individuals. Arguably, taste directly affects consumers’ assessments of most, if not all, fashion choices. Taste, however, does not have an individually based origin, but is based on the imitation of others. The role played by clothing in the communication/construction of identity is widely accepted today. Within this environment, a change in one’s possessions seemingly can lead to a change in one’s self. The role played by many products, therefore, appears to be to act as building blocks consumers can use to construct a desired self. Although many products appear to be utilized in the communication/construction of one’s identity, no products are able to fulfill this role to the extent possible through apparel. Taste acts as the conduit through which fashion acceptance is transmitted between individuals and through social groupings and operates primarily through the imitation of fashion adopted by others. A critical issue which presents itself when examining the imitation of fashion is “what is being imitated?” Fashion imitation actually involves attempts to acquire the meaning associated with the fashion. Girard suggests that the meaning acquired with the imitation of fashion consists of the desirable qualities possessed by the individual or group of individuals whose fashion is being imitated. Imitation occurs, therefore, because fashion becomes associated with those who wear it and comes to be viewed as a reflection of them. Given the role of fashion in the construction/communication of one’s self, consumption ultimately becomes competitive. Indeed, imitation of others whose selves appear desirable can be viewed as a way to acquire the desirable qualities of the other. This is the essence of mimetic desire. According to Girard, and as supported by past fashion marketing research, desire does not possess an individually based origin. In other words, desire for a specific fashion does not arise from an individual’s privately developed tastes. Instead, individuals’ desires and likewise their tastes possess externally based origins – the basis of individuals’ tastes and preferences lie in the imitation of the tastes and preferences observed in others. A central issue of Girard’s theory is that desire is mimetic. Desire arises and gains direction from the desires of others. The desirability of a fashion to an individual is noted and established by the desires of another for the product. When another is viewed as desiring a product (as is noted by their desire for the product or their ownership of the product), an individual is alerted to the desirability of the product – a fashion trend has begun. Rivals must not consist only of individuals with whom one directly interacts (e.g., neighbors, colleagues), they can consist of groups (e.g., reference groups), famous celebrities, or images created through marketing activities (e.g., role models presented in advertising). One’s choice of rivals is an unconscious choice of those whose very essence seems to be desirable, whose being one wants to acquire – “I want to be that person.” The rival, therefore, does not merely serve as a model for fashion, but as the model for tastes and desires themselves. The resulting desire becomes a powerful force, capable of driving the actions of an individual. The infectious nature of mimetic desire can readily be seen in the marketplace. Once the desirability of a specific fashion is communicated, such as by its acquisition and subsequent display (e.g., the item is worn in a public setting) by an individual or by its inclusion in marketing efforts (e.g., advertising or in-store promotion), mimetic desire for the item can be generated in others. The fashion then, is viewed as the means by which the attractive quality can be acquired and incorporated into one’s self. This is the essence of mimetic desire. Indeed, mimetic desire provides the basis by which much fashion diffuses in a society. The resulting rivalry between an individual in whom mimetic desire has developed and the target of that desire, or the rival, necessarily leads to an escalation of tension. First, the acquisition of a specific fashion associated with another is not able to produce the desired results – the acquisition does not result in the acquisition of another’s essence. Second, the act of imitation will also have an effect on the individual being imitated. Seeing one’s fashion choices mimicked by another, particularly one viewed as inferior, will prompt a negative response by an individual. In fact, the act of imitation will likely be viewed a direct attack upon one’s personhood. Consequently, tension, if not violence, is a likely response from being copied. In conclusion, mimetic desire appears to be a driving force in the creation and diffusion of fashion. The infectious nature of mimetic desire provides the basis for the specific characteristics of the demand for fashion. The demand for fashion generally possesses little basis in the need for physical qualities of a product, nor is based in mere imitation of another. Instead, its mimetic basis results in fashion playing a much larger role in the lives of individuals and in society – a role which must be recognized by fashion marketers if they hope to optimally satisfy the fashion needs of their customers. By truly understanding their customers, fashion marketers will find themselves in better positions to create and provide products which will most likely appeal to their specific customer segment.