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The ‘factory manager dilemma’: Purchasing practices and environmental upgrading in apparel global value chains

Author

Listed:
  • Mahwish J Khan

    (Iqra University, Pakistan)

  • Stefano Ponte

    (Copenhagen Business School, Denmark)

  • Peter Lund-Thomsen

    (Copenhagen Business School, Denmark)

Abstract

Economic and environmental upgrading in global value chains are intertwined processes. The existing global value chain literature has so far articulated the relationships between economic and social upgrading but has only recently started to explore the challenges of environmental upgrading from the perspective of suppliers in the Global South. In this article, we examine the ‘factory manager dilemma’ as a way of conceptualising the purchasing practices and environmental upgrading requirements faced by suppliers in their dealings with lead firms in global value chains. Specifically, we analyse the environmental upgrading challenges experienced by Pakistani apparel firms. We conclude that Pakistani apparel suppliers are required both to absorb the consequences of global buyers’ unsustainable purchasing practices and to reduce their own profitability – all in the name of sustainability.

Suggested Citation

  • Mahwish J Khan & Stefano Ponte & Peter Lund-Thomsen, 2020. "The ‘factory manager dilemma’: Purchasing practices and environmental upgrading in apparel global value chains," Environment and Planning A, , vol. 52(4), pages 766-789, June.
    • Handle: RePEc:sae:envira:v:52:y:2020:i:4:p:766-789
    DOI: 10.1177/0308518X19876945
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    References listed on IDEAS

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    Cited by:

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    3. Jensen, Federico & Whitfield, Lindsay, 2022. "Leveraging participation in apparel global supply chains through green industrialization strategies: Implications for low-income countries," Ecological Economics, Elsevier, vol. 194(C).
    4. Søren Jeppesen & Andries Bezuidenhout, 2024. "The Nexus Between Sources of Workers’ Power in the Garment Manufacturing Industries of Lesotho and Eswatini," Journal of Business Ethics, Springer, vol. 195(2), pages 283-298, November.
    5. Enrico Fontana & Muhammad Atif & Ammar Ali Gull, 2021. "Corporate social responsibility decisions in apparel supply chains: The role of negative emotions in Bangladesh and Pakistan," Corporate Social Responsibility and Environmental Management, John Wiley & Sons, vol. 28(6), pages 1700-1714, November.

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