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Could Black Be the New Gold? Design-Driven Challenges in New Sustainable Luxury Materials for Jewelry

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  • Beatrice Lerma

    (Department of Architecture and Design, Politecnico di Torino, Viale Mattioli 39, 10125 Torino, Italy)

  • Doriana Dal Palù

    (Department of Architecture and Design, Politecnico di Torino, Viale Mattioli 39, 10125 Torino, Italy)

  • Marco Actis Grande

    (Department of Applied Science and Technology, Politecnico di Torino, Corso Duca degli Abruzzi 24, 10129 Torino, Italy)

  • Claudia De Giorgi

    (Department of Architecture and Design, Politecnico di Torino, Viale Mattioli 39, 10125 Torino, Italy)

Abstract

Is there a new material for use in jewelry, matching gold and precious stones, capable of maintaining the same perception of “preciousness” but that is also more sustainable, ethical, and inexpensive? This article deals with a case study within the European EcoDesign Network research project, aimed at investigating how sustainable design can help prestigious companies pinpoint new materials for the creation of jewelry, focusing on new and environmentally friendly opportunities while preserving their market position and target audience. Qualitative and quantitative analyses were performed. Adopting the exploring design path, a jewelry background analysis pointed out both stereotypes and possible innovations in the jewelry field: an analysis was carried out on the perception of jewels by a panel guided by a cognitive ergonomics specialist, also using the eye-tracking machine to examine participants’ reactions to the jewelry involved in the study, and to establish paradigms of sustainability, preciousness, and innovation. Several meta-project proposals regarding innovations in materials and finishing were hypothesized and tested, following the main guidelines and principles of ecodesign. Lastly, a prototyping phase and some mechanical tests were implemented to verify the hypotheses of innovation. The results allowed the creation of a first set of sustainable jewelry, currently on the market.

Suggested Citation

  • Beatrice Lerma & Doriana Dal Palù & Marco Actis Grande & Claudia De Giorgi, 2017. "Could Black Be the New Gold? Design-Driven Challenges in New Sustainable Luxury Materials for Jewelry," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 10(1), pages 1-14, December.
    • Handle: RePEc:gam:jsusta:v:10:y:2017:i:1:p:2-:d:123842
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    References listed on IDEAS

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    Cited by:

    1. Jennifer Kunz & Stephanie May & Holger J. Schmidt, 2020. "Sustainable luxury: current status and perspectives for future research," Business Research, Springer;German Academic Association for Business Research, vol. 13(2), pages 541-601, July.
    2. Wen-Yun Chang & Viriya Taecharungroj & Supara Kapasuwan, 2022. "Sustainable Luxury Consumers’ Preferences and Segments: Conjoint and Cluster Analyses," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 14(15), pages 1-16, August.

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