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From Clothing Rations to Fast Fashion: Utilising Regenerated Protein Fibres to Alleviate Pressures on Mass Production

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Listed:
  • Marie Stenton

    (London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, London SW1P 4JU, UK)

  • Veronika Kapsali

    (London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, London SW1P 4JU, UK)

  • Richard S. Blackburn

    (School of Design, University of Leeds, Leeds LS2 9JT, UK)

  • Joseph A. Houghton

    (School of Design, University of Leeds, Leeds LS2 9JT, UK)

Abstract

Sustainable methods of practice within the fashion and textile industry (FTI) often strive to employ a circular economy that aims to eliminate waste through the continual use of resources. Complex problems such as waste, consumption, and overproduction are heavily intertwined; the main aim of this paper is to report on research focused on re-examining the potential of food waste streams as a commercially viable and circular source of raw materials for the FTI. Herein, regenerated protein fibres (RPFs) from food production waste streams rich in protein have been chosen as the main topic of focus. RPFs have a rich and relevant history from a local manufacturing perspective during wartime and post-war clothing rationing (1941–1949) in the UK. RPFs were used to meet civilian needs for wool-based textiles as part of a wider series of ‘make do and mend’ strategies designed to manage the consumption of new textile products. However, RPFs demonstrated inferior quality in terms of durability when compared to wool-based textiles, a significant contributing factor to the consequent commercial phasing out of RPFs. In today’s take–make–waste model, the FTI landscape can be defined by speed, from slow (high-quality materials and construction, long-lasting products) to fast (seasonal, disposable, low-quality materials and construction), the latter infamous for dire environmental impacts. A key objective of this research is to review the association of quality and longevity within the context of a local and circular fashion economy in which textile quality and lifecycle analysis are holistically matched to the longevity of the textile, garment, or product to reduce waste across the supply chain.

Suggested Citation

  • Marie Stenton & Veronika Kapsali & Richard S. Blackburn & Joseph A. Houghton, 2021. "From Clothing Rations to Fast Fashion: Utilising Regenerated Protein Fibres to Alleviate Pressures on Mass Production," Energies, MDPI, vol. 14(18), pages 1-18, September.
    • Handle: RePEc:gam:jeners:v:14:y:2021:i:18:p:5654-:d:631664
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    References listed on IDEAS

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    1. Marie Stenton & Joseph A. Houghton & Veronika Kapsali & Richard S. Blackburn, 2021. "The Potential for Regenerated Protein Fibres within a Circular Economy: Lessons from the Past Can Inform Sustainable Innovation in the Textiles Industry," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 13(4), pages 1-18, February.
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    Cited by:

    1. Osmud Rahman & Dingtao Hu & Benjamin C. M. Fung, 2023. "A Systematic Literature Review of Fashion, Sustainability, and Consumption Using a Mixed Methods Approach," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 15(16), pages 1-37, August.
    2. Apetrei Andreea & Constantin Marius & Deaconu Elena-Mădălina & Dinu Mihai & Pătărlăgeanu Simona Roxana & Petrescu Irina-Elena, 2024. "Eco-chic or trendy-chic? Decoding consumer preferences in sustainable and fast fashion across the EU," Management & Marketing, Sciendo, vol. 19(2), pages 179-210.
    3. Hannah Auerbach George & Marie Stenton & Veronika Kapsali & Richard S. Blackburn & Joseph A. Houghton, 2022. "Referencing Historical Practices and Emergent Technologies in the Future Development of Sustainable Textiles: A Case Study Exploring “Ardil”, a UK-Based Regenerated Protein Fibre," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 14(14), pages 1-21, July.
    4. Maciej Dzikuć & Arkadiusz Piwowar, 2022. "Economic Aspects of Low Carbon Development," Energies, MDPI, vol. 15(14), pages 1-3, July.
    5. Michelle Burton & Rachel Eike, 2023. "The Sustainability-Conscious Consumer: An Exploration of the Motivations, Values, Beliefs, and Norms Guiding Garment Life Extension Practices," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 15(15), pages 1-16, August.

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