When luxury brands use recycled materials: crossed views between consumers and professionals on a transgressive effect[Quand les marques de luxe utilisent des matériaux recyclés : regards croisés entre consommateurs et professionnels sur un effet de transgression]

• Research objectives In response to growing consumer pressure, luxury brands are increasingly turning to product innovations made from recycled materials. However, luxury and sustainable development are two a priori dissonant notions (high quality materials vs. used materials, use of rare resources vs. renewable resources, etc.). These initiatives can then be perceived by consumers as brand transgressions that can affect the consumer-luxury brand relationship. The aim is twofold: (1) to understand the meaning of transgression in the specific case of this type of product; (2) to compare the benefits/risks that consumers associate with the perception of transgression with the differential benefits/risks that luxury professionals derive from transgression-based brand management. • Methodology Qualitative interviews are conducted in France with 25 luxury brand consumers and 21 luxury professionals. • Results The results highlight the transgressive nature of the recycled material luxury product. This is the visual identification (or not) of the recycled attribute that determines the nature of the perceived transgression (negative and provocative or positive and innovative). This transgressive perception generates benefits/risks for consumers, translating into differential benefits/risks for brands, which can lead to the improvement/deterioration of the consumerbrand relationship. • Managerial/societal implications This research makes it possible to formulate recommendations to luxury professionals to better orchestrate their product innovation strategies using recycled materials and thus preserve the consumer-brand relationship. • Originality The originality of this work lies in the study of luxury product innovation in recycled materials from the perspective of transgression. It also enriches the research on the link between luxury and sustainable development.