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Design Trades and Inter-firm Relationships in the Nord-Pas de Calais Textile Industry

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  • Monique Vervaeke
  • Benedicte Lefebvre

Abstract

In the French Nord-Pas de Calais region, textile design is an ancient trade rooted in tradition. Today this region offers the highest number of textile jobs in France, surpassing the Rhone-Alpes and Paris regions. This paper treats textile design as a particular case exemplifying recent changes in the textile industry. The production process is subject to major changes, and design has become more specialized and professional. In order to compete in the international market, companies are developing new strategies involving design and technical innovation. This study focuses on the status and the roles that textile designers, stylists and textile draughtsmen/women play in corporate strategies. It examines the transformation of internal power relations between manufacturers and distributors in the textile value chain. The shift in the balance of power from the manufacturers to the distributors shows that a new hierarchical model of subordination/domination is emerging in inter-firm relations. Dans la region francaise du Nord-Pas de Calais, le design textile s'enracine profondement dans la tradition. De nos jours cette region offre le plus grand nombre d'emplois de l'industrie textile francaise, surpassant la region Rhone-Alpes et la region parisienne. Notre problematique considere que le design textile permet de saisir certaines des mutations contemporaines de l'industrie textile. Le processus de production connait de profonds changements, celui de la creation s'est specialise et professionnalise. Pour faire face a la concurrence internationale, les entreprises ont developpe de nouvelles strategies, integrant l'innovation technique et la creation. Cet article presente les mutations de l'industrie textile en examinant plus particulierement la place qu'occupent les professionnels de la creation (designers textiles, stylistes, dessinateurs textiles, etc.) dans les strategies des entreprises. Il examine la transformation des relations de pouvoir entre fabricants et distributeurs dans la filiere textile. Le deplacement de la repartition des pouvoirs des fabricants aux distributeurs montre qu'un nouveau modele hierarchique de subordination/domination s'est mis en place. In der franzosischen Gegion Nord-Pas de Calais ist Textilentwurf ein altes, in Tradition verwurzeltes Gewerbe. Heutzutage ist sie fuhrend in der Zahl der Erwerbsstellen in der Textilindustrie, und ubertrifft somit das Rhone-Alpengebiet und Paris. Dieser Aufsatz behandelt Textilentwurf als einen Sonderfall, der neue Entwicklungen in der Textilindustrie veranschaulicht. Das Produktionsverfahren ist betrachtlichen Umstellungen unterworfen, und das Entwurfswesen ist spezialisierter und fachmannischer geworden. Um auf dem internationalen Markt wettbewerbsfahig zu bleiben, werden von Firmen neue Strategien entwickelt, einschliesslich Entwurfs-und technischer Integration. Diese Studie beschaftigt sich vorallem mit dem Status und der Rolle, die Fachleute des Textilentwurfs, Stilisten und Textilzeichner/innen in Firmenstrategien spielen. Es werden Veranderungen interner Machtbeziehungen zwischen Produktion und Vertrieb in der Textilwertkette untersucht. Die Verschiebung im Gleichgewicht der Macht von den Herstellern zu den Verkaufern zeigt, dass sich in den Beziehungen zwischen Firmen der Aufstieg eines neuen hierarchischen Modells der Unterordnung/Beherrschung anbahnt.

Suggested Citation

  • Monique Vervaeke & Benedicte Lefebvre, 2002. "Design Trades and Inter-firm Relationships in the Nord-Pas de Calais Textile Industry," Regional Studies, Taylor & Francis Journals, vol. 36(6), pages 661-673.
  • Handle: RePEc:taf:regstd:v:36:y:2002:i:6:p:661-673
    DOI: 10.1080/00343400220146795
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    Cited by:

    1. Céline Abecassis & Pierre-Jean Benghozi, 2005. "Design configuration in fashion and design industries," Post-Print hal-00262989, HAL.
    2. Allen J Scott, 2005. "Cultural-Products Industries And Urban Economic Development: Prospects For Growth And Market Contestation In Global Context," Urban/Regional 0511005, University Library of Munich, Germany.

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