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Shoreline variability of an urban beach fronted by a beachrock reef from video imagery

Author

Listed:
  • A. F. Velegrakis

    (University of the Aegean)

  • V. Trygonis

    (University of the Aegean)

  • A. E. Chatzipavlis

    (University of the Aegean)

  • Th. Karambas

    (Aristotle University of Thessaloniki)

  • M. I. Vousdoukas

    (University of the Aegean
    Climate Risk Management Unit)

  • G. Ghionis

    (National and Kapodistrian University of Athens)

  • I. N. Monioudi

    (University of the Aegean)

  • Th. Hasiotis

    (University of the Aegean)

  • O. Andreadis

    (University of the Aegean)

  • F. Psarros

    (University of the Aegean)

Abstract

This contribution presents the results of a study on the shoreline variability of a natural perched urban beach (Ammoudara, N. Crete, Greece). Shoreline variability was monitored in high spatio-temporal resolution using time series of coastal video images and a novel, fully automated 2-D shoreline detection algorithm. Ten-month video monitoring showed that cross-shore shoreline change was, in some areas, up to 8 m with adjacent sections of the shoreline showing contrasting patterns of beach loss or gain. Variability increased in spring/early summer and stabilized until the end of the summer when partial beach recovery commenced. Correlation of the patterns of beach change with wave forcing (as recorded at an offshore wave buoy) is not straightforward; the only discernible association was that particularly energetic waves from the northern sector can trigger changes in the patterns of shoreline variability and that increased variability might be sustained by increases in offshore wave steepness. It was also found that the fronting beachrock reef exerts significant geological control on beach hydrodynamics. Hydrodynamic modelling and observations during an energetic event showed that the reef can filter wave energy in a highly differential manner, depending on its local architecture. In some areas, the reef allows only low-energy waves to impinge on the shoreline, whereas elsewhere penetration of higher waves is facilitated by the low elevation and limited width of the reef or by the presence of an inlet. Wave/reef interaction can also generate complex circulation patterns, including rip currents that appeared to be also constrained by the reef architecture.

Suggested Citation

  • A. F. Velegrakis & V. Trygonis & A. E. Chatzipavlis & Th. Karambas & M. I. Vousdoukas & G. Ghionis & I. N. Monioudi & Th. Hasiotis & O. Andreadis & F. Psarros, 2016. "Shoreline variability of an urban beach fronted by a beachrock reef from video imagery," Natural Hazards: Journal of the International Society for the Prevention and Mitigation of Natural Hazards, Springer;International Society for the Prevention and Mitigation of Natural Hazards, vol. 83(1), pages 201-222, October.
  • Handle: RePEc:spr:nathaz:v:83:y:2016:i:1:d:10.1007_s11069-016-2415-9
    DOI: 10.1007/s11069-016-2415-9
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    References listed on IDEAS

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    1. Stijn Temmerman & Patrick Meire & Tjeerd J. Bouma & Peter M. J. Herman & Tom Ysebaert & Huib J. De Vriend, 2013. "Ecosystem-based coastal defence in the face of global change," Nature, Nature, vol. 504(7478), pages 79-83, December.
    2. Filippo Ferrario & Michael W. Beck & Curt D. Storlazzi & Fiorenza Micheli & Christine C. Shepard & Laura Airoldi, 2014. "The effectiveness of coral reefs for coastal hazard risk reduction and adaptation," Nature Communications, Nature, vol. 5(1), pages 1-9, September.
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