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Interaction of monsoonal wave, current and tide near Gopalpur, east coast of India, and their impact on beach profile: a case study

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  • P. Mishra
  • S. Patra
  • M. Ramana Murthy
  • P. Mohanty
  • U. Panda

Abstract

A 97-day-long record on waves and currents was obtained using wave rider buoy and current meter moored at 2.5 km off Gopalpur from 19 May to 23 August 2008 representing southwest monsoon months. A Valeport tide gauge was used to record water level at Gopalpur port. Simultaneously, beach profiles at 4 transects were monitored using real-time kinematic (RTK) global positioning system (GPS). A total of 636,167 waves were analyzed for the period; a range of 3,200–9,700 waves approach the coast in an individual day. During the study, unusual characteristics of wave were observed on July 29, 2008, with a magnitude of significant wave height, H s = 2.85 m, maximum wave height, H max = 5.22 m, and peak wave period, T p = 10.2 s, and on August 11, 2008, with H s = 2.28 m, H max = 5.37 m, and T p = 11.1 s. Significant beach loss was noticed during these periods, and severe erosion was recorded on August 1, 2008. Beach profile data indicates that 18–58 cu. m/m sediment was lost during the study period. The paper provides an overview of the statistical analysis of wave heights, periods, direction, and spectral energy density and explains the cause of coastal erosion and loss of sediment. Copyright Springer Science+Business Media B.V. 2011

Suggested Citation

  • P. Mishra & S. Patra & M. Ramana Murthy & P. Mohanty & U. Panda, 2011. "Interaction of monsoonal wave, current and tide near Gopalpur, east coast of India, and their impact on beach profile: a case study," Natural Hazards: Journal of the International Society for the Prevention and Mitigation of Natural Hazards, Springer;International Society for the Prevention and Mitigation of Natural Hazards, vol. 59(2), pages 1145-1159, November.
    • Handle: RePEc:spr:nathaz:v:59:y:2011:i:2:p:1145-1159
    DOI: 10.1007/s11069-011-9826-4
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    References listed on IDEAS

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    1. V. Aboobacker & P. Vethamony & K. Sudheesh & S. Rupali, 2009. "Spectral characteristics of the nearshore waves off Paradip, India during monsoon and extreme events," Natural Hazards: Journal of the International Society for the Prevention and Mitigation of Natural Hazards, Springer;International Society for the Prevention and Mitigation of Natural Hazards, vol. 49(2), pages 311-323, May.
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    Cited by:

    1. Pratap Kumar Mohanty & Prabin Kumar Kar & Balaji Behera, 2020. "Impact of very severe cyclonic storm Phailin on shoreline change along South Odisha Coast," Natural Hazards: Journal of the International Society for the Prevention and Mitigation of Natural Hazards, Springer;International Society for the Prevention and Mitigation of Natural Hazards, vol. 102(2), pages 633-644, June.
    2. Sisir Kumar Patra & Pravakar Mishra & P. K. Mohanty & U. K. Pradhan & U. S. Panda & M. V. Ramana Murthy & V. Sanil Kumar & T. M. Balakrishnan Nair, 2016. "Cyclone and monsoonal wave characteristics of northwestern Bay of Bengal: long-term observations and modeling," Natural Hazards: Journal of the International Society for the Prevention and Mitigation of Natural Hazards, Springer;International Society for the Prevention and Mitigation of Natural Hazards, vol. 82(2), pages 1051-1073, June.

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