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Open innovation in Italian high-end fashion: an analysis of network tie formation by new ventures

Author

Listed:
  • Vincenzo Butticè

    (Politecnico di Milano School of Management)

  • Chiara Franzoni

    (Politecnico di Milano School of Management)

  • Mark Lorenzen

    (Department of Strategy and Innovation)

  • Cristina Rossi-Lamastra

    (Politecnico di Milano School of Management)

Abstract

Using a multiple case study of Italian high-end fashion, we analyze how new ventures pursue an open innovation by forming network ties to facilitate symbolic value propositions. We identify three strategies to form these ties: leverage of extant ties, Product exposure, and Entrepreneur exposure. Discussing the specificity of our empirical setting, we find that the identified strategies accommodate an industry context where market value is socially constructed and uncertainty is high. As a result, rather than being set by entrepreneurs, symbolic value propositions result from a mix of multiple diverse network ties. New high-end fashion ventures form these ties by applying strategies facilitating flexibility through open-ended search.

Suggested Citation

  • Vincenzo Butticè & Chiara Franzoni & Mark Lorenzen & Cristina Rossi-Lamastra, 2023. "Open innovation in Italian high-end fashion: an analysis of network tie formation by new ventures," Economia e Politica Industriale: Journal of Industrial and Business Economics, Springer;Associazione Amici di Economia e Politica Industriale, vol. 50(4), pages 849-875, December.
    • Handle: RePEc:spr:epolin:v:50:y:2023:i:4:d:10.1007_s40812-023-00284-y
    DOI: 10.1007/s40812-023-00284-y
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    Keywords

    Open innovation; Formation of network ties; Symbolic value proposition; High end fashion industry; Creative industries;
    All these keywords.

    JEL classification:

    • L26 - Industrial Organization - - Firm Objectives, Organization, and Behavior - - - Entrepreneurship
    • O36 - Economic Development, Innovation, Technological Change, and Growth - - Innovation; Research and Development; Technological Change; Intellectual Property Rights - - - Open Innovation

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