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Formation of coastline features by large-scale instabilities induced by high-angle waves

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Listed:
  • Andrew Ashton
  • A. Brad Murray

    (Duke University, Box 90227)

  • Olivier Arnoult

    (École Normale Supérieure)

Abstract

Alongshore sediment transport that is driven by waves is generally assumed to smooth a coastline. This assumption is valid for small angles between the wave crest lines and the shore, as has been demonstrated in shoreline models1. But when the angle between the waves and the shoreline is sufficiently large, small perturbations to a straight shoreline will grow2,3. Here we use a numerical model to investigate the implications of this instability mechanism for large-scale morphology over long timescales. Our simulations show growth of coastline perturbations that interact with each other to produce large-scale features that resemble various kinds of natural landforms, including the capes and cuspate forelands observed along the Carolina coast of southeastern North America. Wind and wave data from this area support our hypothesis that such an instability mechanism could be responsible for the formation of shoreline features at spatial scales up to hundreds of kilometres and temporal scales up to millennia.

Suggested Citation

  • Andrew Ashton & A. Brad Murray & Olivier Arnoult, 2001. "Formation of coastline features by large-scale instabilities induced by high-angle waves," Nature, Nature, vol. 414(6861), pages 296-300, November.
    • Handle: RePEc:nat:nature:v:414:y:2001:i:6861:d:10.1038_35104541
    DOI: 10.1038/35104541
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    Citations

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    Cited by:

    1. Peter Adams & Douglas Inman & Jessica Lovering, 2011. "Effects of climate change and wave direction on longshore sediment transport patterns in Southern California," Climatic Change, Springer, vol. 109(1), pages 211-228, December.
    2. Dylan E. McNamara & Martin D. Smith & Zachary Williams & Sathya Gopalakrishnan & Craig E. Landry, 2024. "Policy and market forces delay real estate price declines on the US coast," Nature Communications, Nature, vol. 15(1), pages 1-16, December.
    3. Andrew Ashton & Jeffrey Donnelly & Rob Evans, 2008. "A discussion of the potential impacts of climate change on the shorelines of the Northeastern USA," Mitigation and Adaptation Strategies for Global Change, Springer, vol. 13(7), pages 719-743, August.
    4. Smith, Martin D. & Sanchirico, James N. & Wilen, James E., 2009. "The economics of spatial-dynamic processes: Applications to renewable resources," Journal of Environmental Economics and Management, Elsevier, vol. 57(1), pages 104-121, January.
    5. Sathya Gopalakrishnan & Craig E Landry & Martin D Smith, 2018. "Climate Change Adaptation in Coastal Environments: Modeling Challenges for Resource and Environmental Economists," Review of Environmental Economics and Policy, Association of Environmental and Resource Economists, vol. 12(1), pages 48-68.
    6. Gopalakrishnan, Sathya & McNamara, Dylan & Smith, Martin D. & Murray, A. Brad, 2012. "The Effect Of Stochastic Storms On Optimal Beach Management," 2012 Annual Meeting, August 12-14, 2012, Seattle, Washington 271515, Agricultural and Applied Economics Association.
    7. Smith, Martin D. & Slott, Jordan M. & McNamara, Dylan & Brad Murray, A., 2009. "Beach nourishment as a dynamic capital accumulation problem," Journal of Environmental Economics and Management, Elsevier, vol. 58(1), pages 58-71, July.
    8. Kovaleva, Olga & Eelsalu, Maris & Soomere, Tarmo, 2017. "Hot-spots of large wave energy resources in relatively sheltered sections of the Baltic Sea coast," Renewable and Sustainable Energy Reviews, Elsevier, vol. 74(C), pages 424-437.
    9. Sathya Gopalakrishnan & Dylan McNamara & Martin D. Smith & A. Brad Murray, 2017. "Decentralized Management Hinders Coastal Climate Adaptation: The Spatial-dynamics of Beach Nourishment," Environmental & Resource Economics, Springer;European Association of Environmental and Resource Economists, vol. 67(4), pages 761-787, August.

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