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Performance Factors in Sport Climbing: A Systematic Review

Author

Listed:
  • Pelayo Diez-Fernández

    (Faculty of Education, Pontifical University of Salamanca, 37007 Salamanca, Spain
    Research Group in Physical Activity, Sports, and Health (GIADES), Faculty of Education, Pontifical University of Salamanca, 37007 Salamanca, Spain)

  • Brais Ruibal-Lista

    (Research Group in Physical Activity, Sports, and Health (GIADES), Faculty of Education, Pontifical University of Salamanca, 37007 Salamanca, Spain
    EUM Fray Luis de León, Catholic University of Ávila, 47010 Valladolid, Spain)

  • Javier Rico-Díaz

    (Department of Applied Teaching, Faculty of Education Sciences, University of Santiago de Compostela, 15782 Santiago de Compostela, Spain)

  • José Eugenio Rodríguez-Fernández

    (Department of Applied Teaching, Faculty of Education Sciences, University of Santiago de Compostela, 15782 Santiago de Compostela, Spain)

  • Sergio López-García

    (Faculty of Education, Pontifical University of Salamanca, 37007 Salamanca, Spain
    Research Group in Physical Activity, Sports, and Health (GIADES), Faculty of Education, Pontifical University of Salamanca, 37007 Salamanca, Spain
    Faculty of Education, University of Salamanca, 37008 Salamanca, Spain)

Abstract

Background: Our aim was understanding and identifying the main performance factors involved in sport climbing. Methods: A systematic review was conducted using the Google Scholar, Dialnet, Scielo, and Redalyc databases. Results: After establishing the selection criteria, a total of 27 documents related to the subject of study were examined. A limited number of publications with scientific evidence related to performance factors in sport climbing were found, despite the rise of sport climbing following its inclusion in the Olympic Games in Tokyo 2020. The results have been organized based on different performance factors analyzed, such as strength, muscular endurance, psychological factors, etc. Key determinants in climbing performance, and thus those present in elite athletes, include improved climbing efficiency, greater ability to apply maximum force or finger and palm pressure resistance, and increased arm locking strength. Additionally, it has been observed that those who can apply higher and more consistent loads experience better muscle oxygenation and have greater flexibility and lateral foot reach. Conclusions: Climbing performance is the result of factors that can be enhanced through training. Therefore, further research is needed to understand the performance factors involved in this sports discipline and how to improve them.

Suggested Citation

  • Pelayo Diez-Fernández & Brais Ruibal-Lista & Javier Rico-Díaz & José Eugenio Rodríguez-Fernández & Sergio López-García, 2023. "Performance Factors in Sport Climbing: A Systematic Review," Sustainability, MDPI, vol. 15(24), pages 1-12, December.
    • Handle: RePEc:gam:jsusta:v:15:y:2023:i:24:p:16687-:d:1296813
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    References listed on IDEAS

    as
    1. Nick Draper & Simon Brent & Chris Hodgson & Gavin Blackwell, 2009. "Flexibility assessment and the role of flexibility as a determinant of performance in rock climbing," International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport, Taylor & Francis Journals, vol. 9(1), pages 67-89, April.
    2. Sanchez, Xavier & Lambert, Philippe & Jones, Georgina & Llewellyn, David, 2012. "Efficacy of pre-ascent climbing route visual inspection in indoor sport climbing," LIDAM Reprints ISBA 2012001, Université catholique de Louvain, Institute of Statistics, Biostatistics and Actuarial Sciences (ISBA).
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